Shein, a popular fast-fashion brand, is facing tough times in South Africa due to new rules from the government. The South African Revenue Service (SARS) has changed the import tax laws, making it harder for Shein to compete with local shops. Now, all clothing imports will have the same import duties and taxes, which means higher costs for Shein and possibly fewer buyers. While Shein still has a big share of the market, it will need to make smart changes to keep its place as new local players, like Bash, are starting to rise.
In South Africa, Shein faces new regulations after SARS imposed standard import duties and VAT on all clothing imports, eliminating previous loopholes. This shift aims to ensure fair competition, impacting Shein’s market share and creating challenges for its operational costs and consumer purchases.
The South African fast-fashion industry, a vibrant and competitive market, has seen significant transformations recently, with Shein, a prominent Chinese fast-fashion retailer, at the center of these changes. The evolving regulatory framework, market dynamics, and competitive adjustments present a compelling narrative that mirrors broader historical and economic trends.
In 2024, the South African Revenue Service (SARS) discovered a critical vulnerability in the country’s import duty regulations. Shein had been exploiting the ‘de minimis’ rule, which permitted parcels valued under R500 to attract only a 20% import duty, circumventing the standard 15% Value Added Tax (VAT). In stark contrast, local retailers faced a hefty 45% customs duty in addition to VAT on imported clothing, creating an uneven playing field.
Recognizing this disparity, SARS introduced stricter measures. Effective from July 1, 2024, all clothing imports, regardless of their value, became subject to standard import duties and VAT. This regulatory shift, as reported by Cape {town} Etc, aimed to foster fair competition within the market. The immediate impact on Shein was substantial. Slant Research, an analytics firm based in Cape Town, documented a significant decline in Shein’s market share following the implementation of the new tariff regime.
Payments to logistics partners such as Buffalo International and Meili Logistics indicated a marked increase in median value, reflecting higher costs per transaction for Shein. Concurrently, the overall volume of transactions decreased, suggesting a dip in consumer purchases. This data reveals the mounting operational challenges faced by Shein in the wake of the new regulations.
In April 2025, SARS announced its intention to eliminate all customs and excise concessions that were not aligned with the current regulations. This decision targeted businesses relying on outdated allowances, including Shein and its competitor, Temu. The local retail sector welcomed these changes. Mark Blair, CEO of Mr Price, praised the imposition of a 45% import duty on all clothing items, believing it would ensure fair competition for domestic businesses.
This regulatory tightening also impacted Superbalist, once a dominant player in South Africa’s online-only fashion retail space. Takealot, the previous owner, sold the struggling business in late 2024 to a consortium of investors, including Blank Canvas Capital and KLT. Slant’s findings suggest that Superbalist’s market share has continued to decline post-sale, indicating the broader challenges faced by online-only fashion retailers in a changing regulatory environment.
Amid these challenges, a local player has been steadily gaining traction. Bash, an online platform launched by the Foschini Group, has been increasing its market share over the past 18 months. Slant reports position Bash as a standout performer in an otherwise turbulent market. Daily Investor attributes Bash’s success to its robust local infrastructure, extensive brand portfolio, and adept navigation of South Africa’s tax and import systems, without depending on overseas logistics.
Despite the hurdles, Shein still holds a significant position in the South African market. By late 2024, it had secured over 35% of the women’s online fashion segment. However, maintaining this dominance will require strategic adaptations to navigate the evolving regulatory landscape effectively.
The South African e-commerce sector is maturing, and with it comes the delicate balance of fostering international competition while supporting local enterprises. The recent measures by SARS underscore a commitment to ensuring equitable market conditions for all players involved. This regulatory tightening echoes broader historical economic movements, where protectionist measures sought to nurture local industries against the tide of globalization.
Reflecting on the artistic and historical context, one can draw parallels to the Arts and Crafts movement of the late 19th century, which emerged in response to the industrial revolution. Just as that movement sought to preserve craftsmanship against mass-produced goods, today’s regulatory changes aim to protect local businesses from the overwhelming influx of international fast fashion.
The narrative of Shein in South Africa is not just a corporate story but a microcosm of global economic trends. It highlights the tension between globalization and localism, the struggle for fair competition, and the ever-evolving landscape of international trade. As Shein and other international players adapt to these changes, they must navigate not just economic but cultural landscapes that value both global connections and local integrity.
The interplay of these factors presents a rich tapestry of commerce, regulation, and market dynamics. For Shein, the journey is emblematic of the broader challenges and opportunities in the fast-fashion industry. The company’s ability to adapt will determine its sustained success in a market that increasingly values fairness, transparency, and local enterprise.
As the South African retail sector continues to evolve, the story of Shein serves as a poignant reminder of the intricate balance required to foster a healthy, competitive market. This narrative, infused with both historical echoes and contemporary challenges, underscores the dynamic and ever-changing nature of global commerce.
The South African Revenue Service (SARS) has imposed new import tax laws that include standard duties and VAT on all clothing imports, eliminating previous loopholes that allowed Shein to benefit from a reduced tax rate. This change is aimed at ensuring fair competition between international brands and local retailers.
Following the implementation of the new tariff regime on July 1, 2024, Shein experienced a significant decline in market share. The increased costs associated with the new import duties have led to higher operational expenses, which may result in fewer consumer purchases.
Shein has reported higher transaction costs due to increased payments to logistics partners, alongside a decrease in the overall volume of transactions. These operational challenges stem directly from the regulatory changes, affecting Shein’s ability to maintain its market position.
Emerging local players, particularly Bash, have been gaining market share in the fast-fashion sector. Bash is recognized for its strong local infrastructure and brand portfolio, allowing it to navigate South Africa’s tax and import systems more effectively than international competitors like Shein.
As of late 2024, Shein holds over 35% of the women’s online fashion segment in South Africa. However, maintaining this market share will require strategic adaptations in response to the evolving regulatory landscape.
Shein’s challenges highlight the ongoing tension between globalization and localism within international trade. The recent regulatory changes reflect a broader commitment to fostering fair competition in the market, reminiscent of historical movements aimed at protecting local industries against mass-produced goods.
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