Why Africa Still Has Zero Michelin Stars: The Untold Business Behind the Red Book

7 mins read
Michelin Guide African Cuisine

Africa has no Michelin-starred restaurants because Michelin demands huge fees from tourist boards for inspector visits. African countries, like South Africa, refuse to pay, choosing instead to fund local events and safaris. They believe their food is already amazing and celebrated by locals and tourists alike. This means African chefs are creating their own unique food scene, gaining fame through social media and local awards, proving delicious food doesn’t need Michelin’s stamp of approval.

Why does Africa not have any Michelin-starred restaurants?

Africa currently has no Michelin-starred restaurants because Michelin’s business model requires destinations to pay a significant fee to secure inspector visits. African tourism boards, such as South African Tourism, have opted not to pay these multi-million euro fees, instead investing in other marketing strategies like surf events and safaris, as they believe local palates already appreciate their diverse culinary scene.

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The Price Tag on Prestige

The red guidebook that sends foodies into raptures and chefs into cold sweats has never sent inspectors south of the Sahara. Not because our kitchens lack fire, but because no tourism board has ever written the seven-figure cheque that opens the door. Michelin’s business model is brutally simple: destinations buy access, inspectors arrive, restaurants may – or may not – get stars.

Look at the receipts. Thailand’s tourism ministry wires €880 000 every January to guarantee visits from the anonymous trench-coat brigade. Seoul cut a €350 000 annual deal. Texas went bigger: US$2,7 million over three years bought the Lone Star State its first-ever constellation in 2024. None of that cash buys a single star; it merely buys a seat at the table where the tasting spoons clink.

South Africa’s response has been a polite, consistent “no thanks.” SATourism, provincial marketing boards and city councils have repeatedly crunched the numbers and diverted their limited budgets to surf events, wine-route marketing and Big Five safaris. The calculus is hard to fault: why pay overseas tasters to confirm what locals already taste every weekend – braai-smoked brilliance, Cape-Malay genius and township fine-dining that can make a New Yorker weep into his napkin?

The Colonial Hangover No One Orders

Michelin was born in 1900 as a tyre company’s ploy to get French motorists driving farther, burning rubber and buying guidebooks. A century later the tyre brand is global, but the map of prestige still tilts heavily toward Europe. Tokyo now owns more stars than Paris, yet the cultural lens – Western fine-dining aesthetics, French technique worship – remains the default setting.

Africa’s omission is glaring: 54 countries, 1,3 billion people, thousands of unique cuisines, zero entries. The ledger looks like accidental oversight until you remember the entry fee. What appears culinary is actually economic; what feels like neglect is a continuation of the same commercial logic that once mapped railways and trade routes. The outcome is indistinguishable from colonial curating: the world’s most famous palate still behaves as though great food happens only where Michelin inspectors can expense their foie gras.

Yet the continent keeps inventing flavour. In Lagos, a roadside chef spoons smoked crayfish into jollof risotto and sells out before sunset. In Addis, Teff-based sourdough pizza emerges from a wood-fired oven at 2 300 m above sea level. Michelin isn’t recording any of it, but smartphone cameras are, and Instagram is already the most democratic star system ever invented.

Stars Earned Elsewhere, Flavours Rooted at Home

Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen left the Karoo, opened Jan in Nice and became the first African-born chef to collect a Michelin star in 2016. He did it with biltong dust, buchu and other tastes he first licked off his grandmother’s kitchen counter. Jean Delport (Restaurant JAG, Paris), Hylton James Espey (The Grove, U.K.) and Nick Honeyman (Auberge de la Reine Jeanne, France) followed suit, each wearing SA passports under their chef’s whites.

Back home the trophies look different. La Colombe, FYN and Salsify waltzed into the 2025 World’s 50 Best list without paying a cent for the privilege. Their rankings are decided by a panel of 1 080 independent food writers, chefs and well-travelled gourmands who cast anonymous votes – no tourism board invoice attached. The same list crowned Wolfgat in Paternoster Best Restaurant in the World in 2019, its owner-chef Kobus van der Merwe cooking foraged dune spinach and bokkoms on plates that cost less than a Michelin inspector’s lunch allowance.

Local award ceremonies – Dineplan Reviewers’ Choice, Eat Out Mercedes-Benz Restaurant Awards, World Culinary Awards – fill dining rooms without draining fiscus coffers. The trophy cabinets bulge, the bookings surge, and nobody has to remit euros to Clermont-Ferrand.

The Maths of the Missing Millions

Let’s translate the sticker shock into rands. Michelin inspectors travel in pairs, eat multiple times at every shortlisted venue, need hotels, flights, car hire and a year-round operations office. Industry insiders estimate the running cost at roughly US$400 000 per year for a medium-sized culinary region. South Africa’s scene stretches from the Winelands to the Wild Coast, from Kruger lodges to inner-city Jozi gems. Conservatively, that is US$1 million a year – R18 million at today’s exchange – just to keep the anonymous eaters on the road.

Add the once-off “launch fee” (marketing campaign, PR blitz, gala dinner, bilingual guide printing) and the bill balloons to R25–30 million over three years. The tourism authority would then need proof that star-struck visitors would spend enough extra nights, rent more cars and order more bottles of Cape Syrah to recoup the cost. So far, the spreadsheet says “negative.”

Meanwhile, the return on simply being “Michelin-free” is surprisingly positive. International food journalists love an underdog narrative; headlines such as “The Best Restaurant You’ve Never Heard Of” drive curious gastronauts to book long-haul tickets. Inbound culinary tourism grew 11 % last year, according to SATourism data, without a single red sticker in sight.

A Constellation of Our Own

Could South Africa create its own star system? It already has, just without the tyre-man logo. The Dineplan Reviewers’ Choice Awards aggregate 450 000 verified diner reviews, algorithm-checked for ballot-stuffing. Eat Out’s panel tastes anonymously and pays its own bills, echoing Michelin methodology on a Soweto-to-Stellenbosch scale. The prizes translate directly into fully booked restaurants for months – no euro transfers required.

Chef Wandile Mabaso sums up the mood in many professional kitchens: “I trained in Paris, I respect the guide, but I came home to cook umphokoqo and chakalaka at a level that would make my grandmother proud. If that story doesn’t fit a European template, I’ll write a new one.” His Johannesburg eatery, LesCreatifs, is booked six weeks deep, propelled by TikTok clips and word-of-mouth, not by a cryptic red rectangle.

What emerges is a sustainable model: local critics, regional awards, global social media, repeat custom. The guidebooks tourists tuck into their backpacks are increasingly crowd-sourced, updated nightly and free. Michelin’s 19th-century invention met 21st-century open-source code – and the code is winning.

Taste, Not Testimonials

South Africa’s culinary identity was never waiting for external validation. It was forged in three centuries of indigenous knowledge, slave-spice routes, Dutch ovens, French vines, British pubs, Italian POWs who taught us espresso, and Chinese miners who wokked biltong. The result is a flavour grammar Michelin’s rubric cannot yet parse: seared springbok loin glazed with rooibos reduction, paired with chenin blanc aged in terra-cotta amphora made from local clay.

Visitors who come anyway – Germans flying in specifically for a Salsify tasting, Brazilians booking La Colombe six months ahead – aren’t chasing stars; they’re chasing stories. Stories of proteas on the plate, of ocean views from cliff-hung terraces, of township braai masters who can read wind direction like a sommelier reads terroir. Those stories travel faster and farther than any paid inspector’s report.

The absence of Michelin, then, is not a vacuum; it is white space in which chefs doodle freely. No one worries whether a sauce is “French enough” or a plating “minimalist enough.” Creativity pays rent, not submission fees.

The Next Course

Will the red guide ever land in Cape Town? Possibly. Michelin spokespeople hint that “Africa is on our radar,” the same phrase they used about Bangkok years before the first invoice was issued. If the day arrives, local reaction will likely split. High-end hotel groups might lobby for inclusion, calculating that a trio of stars could justify a 30 % room-rate hike. Independent chefs may quote Beyoncé: “I’ve been paid, I’ve been starstruck – never needed them to confirm I’m the one.”

Either way, the pragmatic move is to keep building restaurants so memorable that travellers leave with a new mental map – one where the Southern Cross replaces the Michelin man as the compass point for where to eat next. By the time inspectors arrive, if they ever do, they will find a country whose tables are already fully booked by people who came for the flavour, stayed for the story and posted the proof before dessert arrived.

Until then, the smartest reservation in global gastronomy remains the one that starts with a flight to OR Tambo or Cape Town International. No entry fee, no tasting tax, just a passport stamp and an appetite. Bring that, and South Africa will hand you stars – no red book required.

[{“question”: “

Why does Africa not have any Michelin-starred restaurants?

\nAfrica currently has no Michelin-starred restaurants primarily because Michelin requires significant fees from tourist boards for inspector visits. African countries, like South Africa, have chosen not to pay these multi-million euro fees, instead investing their budgets in other tourism initiatives.”}, {“question”: “

What is Michelin’s business model for expanding its guide?

\nMichelin’s business model involves destinations paying an entry fee to secure inspector visits. This fee does not guarantee stars but ensures that the region will be considered for inclusion in the guide. For example, Thailand pays €880,000 annually, and Seoul pays €350,000, while Texas paid US$2.7 million over three years to get its first Michelin Guide.”}, {“question”: “

Why do African countries refuse to pay Michelin’s fees?

\nAfrican countries, such as South Africa, refuse to pay Michelin’s fees because they believe their food is already exceptional and celebrated by locals and tourists. They prefer to invest their limited budgets in promoting local events, safaris, and wine routes, rather than paying for external validation. They see no reason to pay for overseas tasters to confirm what their local palates already appreciate.”}, {“question”: “

How are African chefs gaining recognition without Michelin’s involvement?

\nAfrican chefs are gaining fame through alternative channels such as social media (e.g., Instagram, TikTok), local culinary awards (like the Dineplan Reviewers’ Choice and Eat Out Mercedes-Benz Restaurant Awards), and international lists like the World’s 50 Best, which operates without requiring payment from tourism boards. This demonstrates that delicious food doesn’t need Michelin’s stamp of approval to be celebrated and successful.\n”}, {“question”: “

Are there any African-born chefs with Michelin stars?

\nYes, there are African-born chefs who have earned Michelin stars, but typically for restaurants located outside of Africa. For instance, Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen was the first African-born chef to receive a Michelin star in 2016 for his restaurant Jan in Nice, France. Other chefs like Jean Delport, Hylton James Espey, and Nick Honeyman have also achieved stars in Europe, often incorporating African flavors and ingredients into their cuisine abroad.”}, {“question”: “

Could Africa develop its own culinary star system?

\nAfrica is already developing its own robust culinary recognition systems. Platforms like the Dineplan Reviewers’ Choice Awards aggregate verified diner reviews, and local awards like the Eat Out Mercedes-Benz Restaurant Awards use anonymous panels, similar to Michelin’s methodology, but without the high entry fees. These local and crowd-sourced systems are proving effective in filling restaurants and celebrating culinary excellence, offering a sustainable model that resonates with the local food scene and community.”}]

Liam Fortuin is a Cape Town journalist whose reporting on the city’s evolving food culture—from township kitchens to wine-land farms—captures the flavours and stories of South Africa’s many kitchens. Raised in Bo-Kaap, he still starts Saturday mornings hunting koesisters at family stalls on Wale Street, a ritual that feeds both his palate and his notebook.

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